The tourist train between the city and Ntshongweniidles at Dalbridge then glides towards Berea.   Past the black plastic shelters of those who have lost their homes and their hopes.   Along embankments of litter.   Into long tunnels hewn through cliffs   (How many people took how long, at what cost to achieve this?)   The train emerges into sunshine and stops next to a waterfall, splashing into a pristine pool.   At the unkempt Ntshongweni station, a bus waits to take passengers to the market.   There you can buy joy, love, peace and happiness, beautifully spelled out in wooden letters, serif or sans, natural, white, grey or…